Jakar Tsechu in Boomthang

After Sonam's, Nancy arranged for us to head back to Jakar, Boomthang as there Tsechu was about to begin. I was fortunate as this was my second Tsechu...my first being in the capital, Thimphu. While Thimphu's Tsechu was grand, this was much more intimate. Tsechus are held in each district throughout the year. It is a form of a dancing- meditation, where the dancers are warding off evil spirts, and teaching us about the spirits in the other world. A Tsechu is much more than this however. Prior to the dances which the public gets to see, the monks fast and chant for many days in preparation of the ceremony. It would seem that Tsechu's can honour the first Rin Poche ...or also honour the harvest...but please don't quote me here. I have left my
book on Bhutan with Anne and Ron and I always refer to this before I say anything definite. Understanding how the Tsechu's work and who they were for is a complicated story I will need to tell later...I can say, unequivocally they were beautiful and spell binding and we felt very , very, fortunate to be able to join the citizens who came to join in this event. UNESCO has also examined the dances very carefully and of one of the dances has been 'protected and recognized' by UNESCO. For friends reading this, and perhaps Nancy you might be reading this, please feel comfortable filling in the details around UNESCO's understanding of the Tsechu, as well as other details.

Our view from Sonam's

Every morning in Bhutan, whether in the east or west, I awoke to the mountains. This was our view in the Eastern part not far from Sonam's. One afternoon Sonam took us down to the field and the neighboring family was harvesting their rice. Normally this was a safe time to harvest, as the rice was ready and "Blessed Rainy Day" had passed( another celebration...perhaps my favourite after the day honouring the God of Mechanics) but a few days after this photo was taken it began to rain and all I could do was think about the poor farmers who had cut their rice the day before. It lay rotting in the fields! As Sonam, like most Bhutanese, is fluent in a number of languages( usually a minimum of four!) she was able to chat with the farmers and answer all of our questions. The women kindly stopped their harvesting to visit, but then quickly returned to work.

Dave and Allison's first Ara

Ara is the home brew of Bhutanese citizens. They grow their own corn and brew up a drink similar to Sake or slightly reminiscent of Slivovica. Sonam organized a visit with her neighbor friend who brought out their best Ara for us to try. The tricky part, or one of the tricky parts of drinking Ara, is they keep filling up your cup and it is difficult to say anything until the third time of filling. Dave's acquisition of the Sharshop language went up 300% at this Ara party so the brew obviously has many applications! While Ara can be brewed using grains other than corn, the ara we became most familiar with was brewed with corn. Some families brew a higher quality ara than others. This particular Ara was served with an egg cooked in it, similar to my egg drop soup which my grandmother used to make. The smiles tell you how much fun we had, and how much we loved eastern Bhutan. It was difficult to leave!

Prayer flags and Sonam

November 20, 2008
Writing this from the patio of our resort in Phuket, overlooking the ocean on one side and resort pool on the other. We will be swimming in the ocean later today but as luck would have it, our patio has wireless so we are spending some time emailing family and friends, and updating my blog.
Getting back to Eastern Bhutan for a moment,….
Dave, Allison and I were able to stay with Sonam( my Bhutanese daughter!)…Sonam is a professor at Sherepse(sp?) college and spent Christmas with us, and our Manitou friends two Christmases ago. Sonam studied for her Masters in Computer Science at University of New Brunswick and has returned to Eastern Bhutan to teach. Sonam was introduced to us, care of Nancy( of course) who brought her to Camp Manitou one summer and she quickly became friends, and a daughter, with everyone there. So for those of you who know and love Sonam I have included a few photos of her and her college.

Lunch at the Tango Monastery

November 5, 2008 Thimphu, Bhutan

Yesterday was one of those extraordinary days which we are still thinking about and marveling at. Words and photos just scratch the surface of what we learned and are still absorbing. It began rather simply with me making tea in the kitchen when I heard a rustling outside and wondered who could be there as there was no vehicle. A head soon appeared at Nancy’s kitchen door and it was the Lam Netten who is the head of the monk body for Tashigang in Eastern Bhutan. The Lam Netten is an important dignitary of the monk body and I quickly had him enjoying tea and toast with peanut butter only to remember that he probably ate rice and dhal for breakfast(which we had in the fridge) and I’m fairly certain that ‘enjoying tea and toast’ was my take on the situation. I was still in pjs and the household was still asleep when he mentioned he had found prayer beads for our Buddist friend and would we be interested in heading up to the Tango Monastery with him for a lunch he would prepare for all of us. This would allow him to have the prayer beads blessed by the Rinpoche. The invitation was an unexpected honour as this monastery schools the monks at the upper education level and they would be praying for us as well as preparing for some of their own important studies.

from my diary of...November 5, 2008 Thimphu, Bhutan

Yesterday was one of those extraordinary days which we are still thinking about and marveling at. Words and photos just scratch the surface of what we learned and are still absorbing. It began rather simply with me making tea in the kitchen when I heard a rustling outside and wondered who could be there as there was no vehicle. A head soon appeared at Nancy’s kitchen door and it was the Lam Netten who is the head of the monk body for Tashigang in Eastern Bhutan. The Lam Netten is an important dignitary of the monk body and I quickly had him enjoying tea and toast with peanut butter only to remember that he probably ate rice and dhal for breakfast(which we had in the fridge) and I’m fairly certain that ‘enjoying tea and toast’ was my take on the situation. I was still in pjs and the household was still asleep when he mentioned he had found prayer beads for our Buddist friend and would we be interested in heading up to the Tango Monastery with him for a lunch he would prepare for all of us. This would allow him to have the prayer beads blessed by the Rinpoche. The invitation was an unexpected honour as this monastery schools the monks at the upper education level and they would be praying for us as well as preparing for some of their own important studies.

My friend the Lam Neten

Of all of Bhutan's visitors, we were told, that 5 percent make it to Eastern Bhutan. Under Nancy's wonderful wing, we had an amazing drive east through the beautiful Himalayan mountains and eventually arrived in the town of Khanglung where Nancy's eastern landlord, the head monk of Trashigang, the Lam Neten, first paid us a visit. He is wearing his regular robes( I'm sure that's not what they call them), and was quite interested in Nancy's family of friends,when his cell phone rang to the tune of a Bruce Springstein song. (sorry have forgotten which one). We had a wonderful visit and our friendship was sealed when Allison sang for him. After that initial visit we seemed to run into him everywhere!

Waiting for the New King

The days have flown by and it is time for me to update our adventures. Dave, Spruce and I had the good fortune to wait on the streets of Thimphu for about 3 hours until Bhutan's newly crowned king walked by. Men, women and children were dressed in their finest national dress to honour the occasion. The streets were packed, but quiet and respectful. So while none of us are particularly comfortable in crowds, all three of us managed quite comfortably until the King did walk by right in front. The crowd remained quiet and respectful throughout and even the three hour wait was entertaining as people watching is never dull on these occasions. The coronation happened after our trip to Eastern Bhutan, so this photo is somewhat out of order with my diary. I hope to remedy that for the next entry but no promises here. Dave and I are on a little island in Thailand and we seem to have relaxed to "extremely slow" and aren't in a hurry to correc this pace.!!

Monk at Temple(lka-kang)

Two monks appeared to be looking after the temple which was near our picnic site.  I asked permission of the monk to take his photo and he kindly agreed but removed his woolen cap-which I quite liked- for the photo.  All the monks( young and old) wear red ghos(the traditional robe for men) and are therefore readily identifiable.  All religions are respected here, but the majority are Buddhist.  I have been wearing the Kira for the days I am teaching and it has been quite a challenge to wear it correctly, but I am told the ghos worn by the men are considerably more difficult.  Out of respect we have not been taking pictures inside the temple.  Small butter lamps light the temple inside are offerings of food and money can be left with the monks or on the altar.  I have been here a month so far and have read many books on Bhutan and  still I feel I have barely scratched the surface to understanding the country, culture and religion.  I do know though, that whether I  have been at a  temple, chorten,  or by prayer flags, I always leave feeling calmer and somehow more settled.   

Picnic Overlooking Thimphu

Last weekend Nancy drove us to the beginning of a hiking trail overlooking Thimphu(the Sangaygang Trail).  At about the midway point of the trail we stopped for a picnic lunch.  Prayer flags are in front of us while below us was a magnificent view of Thimphu.  It is too bad I couldn't include a sound bite because from here we could hear the drums and see the crowds and dancers who were celebrating the Tsetchu( religious festival) at the Dzong(originally a fortress, but now a monastery, temple and government offices). Because of the geography( Himalayan mountains, valley and river around which Thimphu has grown) the sounds are one of my favourite parts of being here.  The drumming and special horns played for this special four day festival drifted up to us while eating lunch.  Mingled with these almost magical sounds,  were traffic noises, the flowing of the river and general life in Thimphu.  Behind us is a temple which we explored after lunch.   

Staff and student washrooms

The corrugated roofs mean that classrooms and washrooms alike are very loud when it rains.  I haven't yet experienced this particular washroom but no log is complete without a view of te school outhouses/washrooms.  They are the turkish variety with places for feet and no seat.  To date they have all been clean, but I travel(discreetly) with toilet paper, soap and hand towel for those that don't have the necessary supplies.  Monday, when I teach in my long kira, walking, teaching, and using the washroom facilities will all be a challenge I am sure.  As long as I don't fall head long into any of the students I should be fine.  If my skirt(kira) comes loose I am told everyone (students and teachers) will help me get it rearranged.  So,....to avoid that embarrassment my homework for this weekend is to practice wrapping this rather complicated piece of material around me securely and neatly.  Spruce and Anne have promised to help!

Students in their Ghos and Kiras

My country students wear uniforms which they are required to pay for.  School is free but if they can't purchase uniforms they don't come to school.  The gho, which is worn by the boys, falls just below their knees and the girls wear a uniform that comes to the ground.  In the winter they don't wear leggings or snow pants.  What I may eventually get used to is the fact that students and teachers alike walk anywhere from one to three hours to school, and then repeat  the walk again at the end of the day.  Needless to say, they are all slim and trim.  The hills are magnificent, and I will try to get a better shot on Monday to do the view justice.  It is really breathtaking.  Everywhere I drive, or hike, I am surrounded by mountains and rivers and  beauty that continually inspires.  Did I mention that everyone here speaks a minimum of 4 languages.  Speaking 6 or 7 languages is more the norm.  Every valley has its own language!     

Kindergarten class

Yesterday we drove about 45 minutes to a country school outside of Thimphu. This school is higher up and gets colder temperatures which is something I haven't yet got my mind around as there are no heaters or stoves  or insulation to keep the heat in.  The students, as you can see, are very diligent and engaged in their studies.  There is just enough room for them to stand up, so next week, when I give a lesson with them, I am hoping we can go outside to do some action songs. There isn't room for their back packs except on their backs.  The walls are corrugated steel and the floor is concrete/ground.  The world bank has funded a new school for them which is going up all around them.  I'm not sure their rooms will be heated but there should be more space and better insulation from the winter winds. The teachers are following a new curriculum and are most attentive to getting it right.  They are so appreciative of any lessons I offer or materials I leave with them.  I am learning sooo much!!

My First School in Bhutan

Nancy has arranged that I meet with all the education people in Bhutan and while we were waiting for meetings to take place, she took me to a number of schools in Paro.  Another emotional day!  I've been telling Nancy I may cry every day in Bhutan!  The children are sweet sweet.  They were thrilled to have visitors and didn't mind Nancy and I sitting in on some of their lessons.  This was taken in the school library and as soon as I brought out my camera the boys obliged me with many pictures.   While supplies are minimal compared to our schools, the students are so enthusiastic and polite, and the teachers are very proud of all the changes they are bringing to their schools.  They have just revised their curriculum and it is not unlike ours.  Students are learning two languages, two alphabets and love to sing all the songs they have learned.  Next week I begin working with teachers and students.  I am learning so much every day.  I feel most fortunate.

Tiger's Nest or Tak Tsung

There really aren't words to describe our hike to this monastery.  We had a beautiful day weather wise.  Our guides, Tashie and Neema carried our lunches and my back pack when they could see me slowing.  It is a gruelling hike up, but the scenery every step of the way is majestic and somehow you don't notice that you can't breath or that your legs hurt.  The trick we learned is to start very early and so we did.  The monastery is tucked into the mountain.  After a fire in the late 90s the monastery was rebuilt using pulleys and much human power.  As we neared the top(Anne, Ron, Tashie a Neema and I)and I began to wonder if vertigo would get the better of me, our guides were right by my side not giving me a minute to think I might have difficulties. One needs permits to hike to Tak tsung, and I am hoping that when Dave and Allison join us I might be able to take them up there again! In the monastery, Neema, who had once been a monk, was able to get us into one of the more secluded santuaries where we could light butterlamps in memory of those departed.  A very special and emotional day.

Bhutan

This is Friday September 19th in Bhutan!  The home on the left belongs to my friend Nancy who has made me comfortable and very welcome here.  Next entry I will try to include a picture of Nancy and Spruce.  On my first day here Anne, Ron, Spruce and I went for a hike. It was a rather slow hike as I was adjusting to jet lag and the altitude of 8000 feet, almost as high as the highest mountain in Canada.   Each of the poles behind us has a flag on them called a prayer flag.  I will explain more about prayer flags later.  I also had my first meeting today with their department of education.  Very exciting to learn about what they are doing here!     

Map of Bhutan

MIT has published one of the most amazing books I have ever seen- titled BHUTAN -which is where I was able to find this map. I wish I could remember the organization they worked with- the publishing was a joint effort I believe. You won't find this book in our local library as it is too large to fit on any shelf. The original book is 4 feet by 5 feet (or larger...claims to be the biggest book in the world). Only a few books have been published- as a fund raiser- and I was lucky enough to see this book as Nancy Strickland ( in Bhutan) left her copy with Dave Cole( in Sudbury). Ken Haigh, in his book "Under the Holy Lake, A Memoir of Eastern Bhutan" told me, to find Bhutan, I must first find the tip of India and work my way north and slightly east and there I would find Bhutan. His adventures of teaching for two years in Bhutan have been my bed time reading for the past while. An amazing story, beautifully written. I am flying into Paro in Western Bhutan. For my students who know Spruce, she will be there ahead of me and is on her way there now!

Learning about Blogs

So this is our proud addition to the world!! The first baby loon on Lohi Lake in over 10, possibly 15 years....also a chance for me to figure out how to get my pictures on the blog...Map of Bhutan next!

Pick up and Go

Before I show you a map of Bhutan, I needed to include our newest loon on the lake. The loons are preparing to migrate to their winter grounds and they can just pick up and go....my effort to do the same has been a lengthy process of getting needles, looking for a sleeping bag that will keep me warm( most homes aren't heated I hear) and bringing medicine with me just in case I pick up something; we will be traveling to Eastern Bhutan where medical facilities are minimal. I have brought a few school supplies and my other school material I will try to pick up on line through my friend Kristen's wonderful support line. Dave is joining me in a month so maybe it is a good thing I am limited to 20 kg as I have to 'pick up and go' under my own steam! Whoops...I can't seem to add a photo today...will try later....Heather

Ready to Go!

As I write this, it is a misty morning at Lohi Lake. I can just see the trees outside my dining room window, but I can't see the lake or our loon friends. I've been visiting and calling friends and family and kayaking the length of Lohi all in an attempt to say a fond farewell until December, while also reading all about Bhutan in anticipation of where I am going. It is a mixture of feelings. I have weighed and reweighed my luggage as I am limited to 20 kg. And.... I have just emailed pictures of our first baby loon on Lohi Lake in years!! Marlies and Dieter S. are completing their part of the annual loon study and this goes into a Canadian Data bank... the photos need to go in with their data. There are a few more things to do I imagine, but the basics are covered....

Camp Manitou is just a boat ride away from White Fish Falls. It's beautiful isn't it? It's calming influence seems to allow us to contemplate trips to the other side of the world with ease. When you combine Manitou with Nancy Strickland's quiet enthusiasm for Bhutan one is never certain what will happen. I am just beginning to realize this now as I am learning about Bhutan, reading maps, and trying to pay for tickets to get us into this wonderful Kingdom. I won't go into the details but while the contemplating of going to Bhutan was easy, the arranging of the trip has been somewhat more complicated. Nancy deserves a picture here as well but I will submit that once we arrive in Bhutan.

Hello all!

As I promised my grade 1/2 students, I will keep a blog for them while I am away this year. Thanks to Deb Mac for the title of the blog...it works doesn't it!?...for Kathy F. in Nova Scotia who showed me her blog...it can be done!!!(yikes!)...and for Allison who generously helped set me up my first blog this a.m.. Special thanks goes to Nancy in Bhutan who on a quiet evening last summer, on the shores of Georgian Bay at Camp Manitou, suggested I come to Bhutan and work with teachers there. This dream has been percolating away for over a year now and it would seem that the adventure is about to begin!

hi, this is heather's blog.